London Fashion Week SS26: Barrus and voices shaping fashion’s future


London Fashion Week has long been renowned for being the most daring of the four global fashion capitals. Unlike Paris’s grandeur or Milan’s polish, London thrives on risk-taking, diversity and new voices. The Spring/Summer 2026 shows carried that spirit forward with a fresh sense of balance: Designers were eager to experiment, but they also brought collections that felt wearable, thoughtful and emotionally resonant.

From Istanbul with love

One of the most striking presentations came from Barrus x Art de Huile. The collection, titled “7 Hills / 7 Heals,” paid homage to Istanbul, weaving the city’s layered history and vibrant spirit into contemporary couture. Flowing fabrics echoed the movement of the Bosporus, while Judas-tree blossoms inspired delicate patterns, and iconic landmarks, such as the Galata Tower, were reimagined in bold prints.


A model walks the runway at the Barrus X Art De Huille show during LFW at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)
A model walks the runway at the Barrus X Art De Huille show during LFW at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)

What made the Barrus showcase especially unique was its use of nanotechnology and aromatherapy. The scent-infused scarves and fabrics turned fashion into a multi-sensory experience, making the runway not just a visual spectacle but also an olfactory journey. It was an ambitious marriage of science, culture and high design – a reflection of how modern fashion can be both innovative and deeply rooted in tradition. For many, it was a standout moment of the week: Istanbul translated into couture for London’s global stage.


Juliet Mayhew (L), Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu, creative director of Barrus (C), and Lady Victoria Hervey pose backstage at the Barrus X Art De Huille show at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)
Juliet Mayhew (L), Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu, creative director of Barrus (C), and Lady Victoria Hervey pose backstage at the Barrus X Art De Huille show at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)

Burberry’s new lightness

Elsewhere, Burberry showed a collection that stripped back excess and leaned into youthful ease. Daniel Lee reinterpreted trench coats and bomber jackets with cleaner lines and more relaxed silhouettes. It was recognizably British but carried a new freshness, suggesting Burberry’s desire to connect with a younger audience without losing its heritage identity.


Models present creations for Burberry's Spring/Summer 2026 fashion show collection during London Fashion Week, London, U.K., Sept. 22, 2025. (AFP Photo)
Models present creations for Burberry’s Spring/Summer 2026 fashion show collection during London Fashion Week, London, U.K., Sept. 22, 2025. (AFP Photo)

Theatrical boldness

Dilara Findikoglu once again brought her fearless aesthetic to Ironmonger’s Hall, filling the space with sculptural dresses, corseted silhouettes, and bold motifs, including cherries and safety-pin embellishments. Her work carried the drama of theater but was grounded in impeccable craftsmanship. It was a reminder that London still champions designers who refuse to compromise their creative voice.

Romantic playfulness

Simone Rocha stayed true to her romantic DNA – lace, draping and ethereal gowns – but surprised the industry with her collaboration with Crocs. The platform ballerina Crocs stole headlines, showing that even the most functional footwear can be transformed into avant-garde fashion in Rocha’s hands. It was playful, unexpected and pure London.

Functionality

Johanna Parv presented the opposite mood: sleek, practical and intelligently engineered. With hidden hoods, convertible cuts and streamlined coats, her garments felt designed for real urban life. It was utilitarian elegance at its best – proving that practicality and luxury can coexist.


Models display their creations during the Johanna Parv show at the Newgen Catwalk Space, the Old Selfridges Hotel, during London Fashion Week, London, U.K., Sept. 21, 2025. (AP Photo)
Models display their creations during the Johanna Parv show at the Newgen Catwalk Space, the Old Selfridges Hotel, during London Fashion Week, London, U.K., Sept. 21, 2025. (AP Photo)

Storytelling

For Tolu Coker, fashion was a vehicle for narrative. Her show blended clothing, film and performance to explore themes of family, memory and identity. Fluid nude dresses contrasted with bold cut-outs, creating an atmosphere that was both intimate and powerful. It demonstrated how London designers frequently utilize fashion as a means of storytelling, rather than merely as a design element.

London’s broader message

Taken together, these shows carried a clear message: London is not about uniformity but about plurality. Each designer spoke with a different voice – some rooted in heritage, others in experimentation, others in cultural storytelling. Yet all shared a sense of authenticity. Instead of spectacle for its own sake, the best collections were grounded in clarity, identity and purpose.


A model walks the runway at the Barrus X Art De Huille show during LFW at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)
A model walks the runway at the Barrus X Art De Huille show during LFW at the Royal Horseguards Hotel, London, U.K., Sept. 19, 2025. (Courtesy of Barrus)

And in that mix, Barrus x Art de Huile stood out not just for its beauty but for its innovation. By merging Istanbul’s soul with nanotechnology and aromatherapy, Barrus demonstrated that fashion can serve as both a vehicle for cultural diplomacy and a platform for scientific exploration. It was a reminder that London Fashion Week is not simply about clothing – it is about ideas, conversations and bridges between worlds.

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